I love bagels and I was in the mood to do some baking. Since I had already made the original bagel recipe in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, I decided to use this opportunity to make the cinnamon raisin variation provided by Peter Reinhart. The only differences are an increase in yeast and the addition of sugar, cinnamon, and raisins to the dough. I loved the original bagels and quite possibly loved this version even more. They were absolutely incredible – the texture was perfectly chewy and just the right amount of sweet to complement the cinnamon and raisins. Everyone who tried them loved them and begged for more. So far they have been eaten with cream cheese, with butter, and with peanut butter, all generating rave reviews.
A beginner baker who has never tackled bagels need not be intimidated. As you’ll see, there are a number of steps and involved, and it is a bit time-consuming, but certainly not difficult. The one thing you will want to take note of is the overnight rest in the refrigerator – this step should not be skipped or any short cuts taken, as this retardation, as Peter Reinhart refers to it, is a vital step in allowing the bagels to develop their characteristic flavor.
Notes on recipe:
♦ This bagel recipe makes a very stiff dough, so keep an eye (and nose) out for your KA – the last time I made these I could actually smell the motor burning. Definitely not good. If you feel like it’s too much for your mixer, do the kneading by hand.
♦ I measured out the dough into 4½-ounce pieces as the recipe instructs, and I got 15 bagels instead of 12. I’m not sure why, but I was happy to have some extra bagels.
♦ Some of my bagels plumped up nicely but many others were rather flat. I’m not sure why this was – does anyone have any insight to share? The only thing I could think of is maybe I had the trays covered too tightly in the refrigerator overnight, and perhaps that kept them from plumping up to their full potential?
Plain bagel recipe from Peter Reinhart
Yield: 12 large bagels
Prep Time: 1 hour (active) 11 hours (inactive)
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 12 hours
1 teaspoon (0.11 ounces) instant yeast
4 cups (18 ounces) unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
2½ cups (20 ounces) water, at room temperature
1 teaspoon (0.11 ounces) instant yeast
3¾ cups (17 ounces) unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
2¾ teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
5 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 cups loosely packed raisins, rinsed in warm water
2 teaspoons malt powder
1 tablespoon dark or light malt syrup, honey, or brown sugar
1 tablespoon baking soda
Cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting
1. To make the sponge, stir the yeast into the flour in a 4-quart mixing bowl. Add the water, whisking or stirring only until it forms a smooth, sticky batter (like pancake batter). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until the mixture becomes very foamy and bubbly. It should swell to nearly double in size and collapse when the bowl is tapped on the countertop.
2. To make the dough, in the same mixing bowl, add the additional yeast to the sponge and stir. Then add 3 cups of the flour and all of the salt, malt, sugar and cinnamon. Stir (or mix on low speed with the dough hook) until the ingredients form a ball, slowly working in the remaining ¾ cup flour to stiffen the dough.
3. Transfer the dough to the counter and knead for at least 10 minutes (or for 6 minutes by machine), adding the raisins during the final 2 minutes. The dough should be firm, stiffer than French bread dough, but still pliable and smooth. There should be no raw flour - all the ingredients should be hydrated. The dough should pass the windowpane test and register 77° to 81°F. If the dough seems too dry and rips, add a few drops of water and continue kneading. If the dough seems tacky or sticky, add more flour to achiever the stiffness required. The kneaded dough should feel satiny and pliable but not be tacky.
4. Immediately divide the dough into 4½-ounce pieces for standard bagels. Form the pieces into rolls. Cover the rolls with a damp towel and allow them to rest for approximately 20 minutes.
5. Line 2 sheet pans with parchment paper and mist lightly with spray oil. Shape the bagels in one of the following two ways:
5a. Poke a hole in a ball of bagel dough and gently rotate your thumb around the inside of the hole to widen it to approximately 2½ inches in diameter. The dough should be as evenly stretched as possible (try to avoid thick and thin spots).
5b. Roll out the dough into an 8-inch-long rope. Wrap the dough around the palm and back of your hand, between the thumb and forefinger, ovrlapping the ends by several inches. Press the overlapping ends on the counter with the palm of your hand, rocking back and forth to seal.
6. Place each of the shaped pieces 2 inches apart on the pans. Mist the bagels very lightly with the spray oil and slip each pan into a food-grade plastic bag, or cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the pans sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
7. Check to see if the bagels are ready to be retarded in thee refrigerator by using the "float test". Fill a small bowl with cool or room-temperature water. The bagels are ready to be retarded when they float within 10 seconds of being droppd into the water. Take one bagel and test it. If it floats, immediately return the tester bagel to the pan, pat it dry, covr the pan, and place it in the refrigerator overnight (it can stay in the refrigerator for up to 2 days). If the bagel does not float, return it to the pan and continue to proof the dough at room temperature, checking back every 10 to 20 minutes or so until a tester floats. The time needed to accomplish the float will vary, depending on the ambient temperature and the stiffness of the dough.
8. The following day (or when you are ready to bake the bagels), preheat the oven to 500°F with the two racks set in the middle of the oven. Bring a large pot of water to a boil (the wider the pot the better), and add the baking soda. Have a slotted spoon or skimmer nearby.
9. Remove the bagels from the refrigerator and gently drop them into the water, boiling only as many as comfortably fit (they should float within 10 seconds). After 1 minute flip them over and boil for another minute. If you like very chewy bagels, you can extend the boiling to 2 minutes per side. While the bagels are boiling, sprinkle the same parchment-lined sheet pans with cornmeal or semolina flour.
10. When all the bagels have ben boiled, place the pans on the 2 middle shelves in the oven. Bake for approximately 5 minutes, then rotate the pans, switching shelves and giving the pans a 180-degree rotation. (If you are baking only 1 pan, keep it on the center shelf but still rotate 180 degrees.) After the rotation, lower the oven setting to 450F and continue baking for about 5 minutes, or until the bagels turn light golden brown. You may bake them darker if you prefer.
11. Remove the pans from the oven and let the bagels cool on a rack for 15 minutes or longer before serving.